Włókniny formowano z polipropylenu modyfikowanego aktywatorem fotodegradacji na stanowisku laboratoryjnym zaprojektowanym i zbudowanym przez COBRMW "Polmatex-Cenaro". Wytworzono osiem wariantów modyfikowanych włóknin różniących się masą powierzchniową i stężeniem modyfikatora. Następnie próbki włóknin eksponowano przez pięć miesięcy na światło słoneczne na stanowisku badawczym skonstruowanym w Instytucie Włókiennictwa w Łodzi. Równolegle prowadzono naświetlania badanych próbek włóknin w świetle lampy ksenonowej. Na podstawie analizy właściwości fizyko-mechanicznych oraz zmian strukturalnych oceniono podatność włóknin na fotodegradację w zależności od stężenia modyfikatora i masy powierzchniowej.
EN
Non-woven fabrics were formed from polypropylene modified with a photodegradation activator on a laboratory line designed and built by COBRMW "Polmatex-Cenaro". Eight variants of non-woven fabrics of varying surface density and activator concentration were formed. The non-woven samples were then exposed to sun light for five months on a testing stand constructed by Textile Research Institute or to artificial light from xenone lamp. Based on analysis of mechanical properties and structural changes influence of surface density and activator concentration on the non-wovens susceptibility to photodegradation was evaluated.
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The rates of degradation of two types of polypropylene (PP) fibres caused by sunlight and xenon tube light were assessed. Changes in the tensile strength and elongation at break of the fibres as well as changes in the fibre surface topography due to their irradiation with the same doses of UV radiation of both types of light were compared. The tensile strength of PP fibres exposed to xenon tube light decreases four up to six times faster than that of PP fibres exposed to sunlight during the summer season. The elongation at break of these fibres decreases about four times faster. The light emitted by an xenon tube causes considerably greater damage to the fibre surface in the form of crosswise cracks, although there are fewer of which than in the case of sunlight.
PL
Badano szybkość degradacji dwóch rodzajów włókien polipropylenowych (PP), wywołaną światłem słonecznym i światłem sztucznym lampy ksenonowej. Porównano zmiany wytrzymałości na zerwanie i wydłużenie przy zerwaniu włókna oraz zmiany morfologii powierzchni włókien powstające przy naświetlaniu jednakowymi dawkami promieniowania ultrafioletowego obu rodzajów światła. Wytrzymałość na zerwanie włókien PP naświetlanych światłem lampy ksenonowej maleje cztery do sześciu razy szybciej niż wytrzymałość na zerwanie włókien eksponowanych na działanie światła słonecznego w okresie letnim. Wydłużenie w chwili zerwania tych włókien maleje około czterokrotnie szybciej. Światło emitowane przez lampę ksenonową wywołuje znacznie większe, choć mniej liczne niż światło słoneczne, uszkodzenia powierzchni włókien w postaci poprzecznych pęknięć.
The digital method of the measurement of the parameters of building and the structure properties of woven fabrics was worked out, which are the surface of open spaces and fabric cover. Obtained results were compared with results appointed by theoretical methods, according to mathematical relations based on the geometrical models of fabric. In order to define the parameters describing the real shape of yarn cross section, the microscopic image of yarn cross section were done. The correlation was marked for results obtained by mentioned method. The results of tested parameters were presented such as: air permeability and the correlation between open spaces and value of air permeability of tested samples was checked.
The digital method of the measurement of the parameters of building and the structure properties of woven fabrics was worked out, which are the surface of open spaces and fabric cover. Obtained results were compared with results appointed by theoretical methods, according to mathematical relations based on the geometrical models of fabric. In order to define the parameters describing the real shape of yarn cross section, the microscopic image of yarn cross section were done. The correlation was marked for results obtained by mentioned method. The results of tested parameters were presented such as: air permeability and the correlation between open spaces and value of air permeability of tested samples was checked.
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Właściwości wytrzymałościowe tkanin determinują ich przydatność do określonego obszaru zastosowania. W pracy przedstawiono analizę zjawiska statycznego rozdzierania tkanin bawełnianych. Celem rozprawy doktorskiej było opracowanie teoretycznego modelu rozdzierania tkanin bawełnianych, który jednocześnie wiąże parametry struktury przędzy i tkaniny ze zjawiskami zachodzącymi w strefie rozdzierania tkanin oraz uwzględnia parametry geometrii tej strefy.
EN
The aim of Ph.D doctor's thesis was checking a possibility to predict a resistance to static tearing for a wing shape sample of cotton woven fabrics -using the derived model based on the analysis of force distribution in the woven fabric tearing zone, parameters of zone geometry and parameters of yarn and woven fabric structure. The research study presents problems relating to the modelling the resistance to static tearing of cotton woven fabrics for wing shape samples. Theoretical model of tearing wing shape samples of cotton woven fabrics was derived on the basis of: an occurrence of force distribution in the woven fabric tearing zone, parameters of this zone geometry and parameters of yarn and woven fabric structure. Literature survey revealed a need to develop such a model. Tests on tearing strength play an essential role in a complex evaluation of properties of woven fabrics for different applications. Proposed model of tearing allows describing all phenomena occurring in the woven fabric tearing zone and determining any relations between parameters, which are defined and described in the model. While developing the model of woven fabric tearing process its practical application in a fabric design was considered. Expecting that calculation process would be automated it was assumed that parameters, including model coefficients, should be derived from the data on yarn and woven fabric structure, which are easily available during designing, while the experimental determination of the other model parameters should refer to commonly used methods. To obtain specified research aims it was necessary to produce model woven fabrics of defined structural parameters and to carry out experiments presented in the research work plan. To analyze the geometry of woven fabric tearing zone and to define its parameters a computerized stand was designed and built. It allows analyzing the image and visualizing the tearing zone. The main parts of this stand are: tensile tester cooperating with a computer software test-Xpert, a digital camera and the software MicroStudio Video programme. The stand is universal as its elements can be adjusted, while analyzing the sample and registering the changes occurring in the woven fabric structure during tearing force propagation.
The digital method of the measurement of the parameters of building and the structure properties of woven fabrics was worked out, which are the surface of open spaces and fabric cover. Obtained results were compared with results appointed by theoretical methods, according to mathematical relations based on the geometrical models of fabric. In order to define the parameters describing the real shape of yarn cross section, the microscopic image of yarn cross section were done. The correlation was marked for results obtained by mentioned method. The results of tested parameters were presented such as: air permeability and the correlation between open spaces and value of air permeability of tested samples was checked.
Static tear strength is one of the most important criteria of strength property assessment of many textile groups. Taking into account the significance of this criterion, research on possibilities of theoretical prediction of fabric tear strength is carried out. Problem of tearing strength is very complex, because according to the literature and research done so far, the tear force depends on many factors, i.e., parameters of threads, fabric structure, as well as force distribution and geometrical relationships taking place in so called tearing zone. In presented paper a trial of detailed description of events in cotton fabric tearing zone with taking into consideration the geometry of tearing zone was undertaken. Firstly, research on designing and building of stand for registration and computer image analysis was undertaken, moreover the methodology of a proper registration and analysis of obtained tearing images, and then quality and quantity assessment of events is the tearing zone was establish. Experiment was carried out for model cotton fabrics of such a structure, which enables observations of changes during tearing one set of threads at the assumption than the parametrers of another set of threads are unchangeable. There are presented results concering the effectiveness of image analysis system for assessment of static tearing in fabrics, description of static phases, characteristic parameters of tearing zone and analysis of geometry of tearing zone, as well as influence of parameters of cotton fabric structure, and parameters of tearing zone.
W artykule zaprezentowano niestandardowe metody badań i oceny tekstyliów prowadzone z wykorzystaniem maszyny wytrzymałościowej. Metody te umożliwiają pomiary i ocenę zmian zachodzących w strukturze wybranych asortymentów tekstyliów pod wpływem działania sił, a także przy zastosowaniu dodatkowych elementów jak np. kamera cyfrowa, wizualizację tych zmian. Poniżej opisano metody badawcze dotyczące oceny właściwości sprężystych dzianin dystansowych i tkanin elastycznych oraz metodę umożliwiającą rejestrację przebiegu zmian zachodzących w tkaninach podczas statycznego rozdzierania.
EN
Continuous development of new structures of textile products, a need for extensive knowledge of the phenomena that take place in the structure of these products, and also the application of modern techniques in analysis of these changes, make new requirements for research laboratories. They concern improvement of research methodology and implementation of methods that have not been used so far in laboratory tests. Every textile product during a so called "life cycle" is subjected to multidirectional forces which cause deformations and changes in its structure. These changes are often studied using tension testers CRE (constant rate of specimen extension). Irrespective of their sophistication (either computer-aided or not) these machines can be used to analyze extension, compression and cyclic extension and compression of textile products. For typical structures such as fibers, threads, flat textile products, 3D products, e.g. cellular plastics, the above tests are made most often using standard research methods. Appearance of new 3D structures of textile products such as warp-knitted spacer structures or shaped products requires adjustmen of the tension tester instrumentation and development of new research methods that enable estimation of physico-mechanical properties of these products. In the Institute of The Textile Materials Engineering in Lodz, such methods were developed to determine the resistance to flattening, elasticity during cyclic compression and elasticity under the stress for warp-knitted spacer structures. Another problem is the use of visualization and image analysis techniques to record and estimate destructive tests made using the CRE machine. In our Institute a computer image analysis system was designed and constructed to guarantee continuous recording of changes that take place in the textile structures. This system enabled observation and separation of a so-called tear zone in textiles which contributed to estimation of the zone geometry. Basing on experimental investigations, methods for measurement of the tear zone geometry were developed. An advantage of the computer image analysis system is its multi-functionality. It can be used also to reconstruct and measure changes in textile structures during other tests, e.g. when combustibility or wetting is tested. The program for image analysis facilitates also documentation and presentation of results. The above unconventional research methods developed in the Institute of The Textile Materials Engineering with the use of the CRE machine will be discussed in the paper.
This article presents the outline of clothing history in Japan on the example of kimono, the most characteristic clothing item of this country. This allows us to follow the evolution of this product throughout centuries up to the moment when it took the wildly recognised form. Also the types and symbols of kimono were presented with particular accent on woman's kimono, which is of more variety of design, colours and patterns to man's kimono.
This article presents the outline of clothing history in Japan on the example of kimono, the most characteristic clothing item of this country. This allows us to follow the evolution of this product throughout centuries up to the moment when it took the wildly recognised form. Also the types and symbols of kimono were presented with particular accent on woman's kimono, which is of more variety of design, colours and patterns to man's kimono.
Fabric utility parameters most often depend on its mechanical properties. The most important strength parameters include unidirectional tensile strength, tear strength and elasticity properties. In this work we describe in detail the problem of tear strength, appropriate measurement methods and the correlation relationships between the results obtained by different tear methods. The measurements of tear strength were carried out for a chosen group of protective textiles. In addition, the unidirectional tensile strength was measured for the group of textiles mentioned above, and the correlation coefficients between the tensile strength and tear strength were calculated by different methods.
PL
Parametry użytkowe tkanin najczęściej zależą od ich właściwości mechanicznych. Do najważniejszych cech wytrzymałościowych należą wytrzymałość na jednokierunkowe rozciąganie, wytrzymałość na rozdzieranie i właściwości sprężyste. W prezentowanej pracy szczegółowo omówiono zagadnienie wytrzymałości na rozdzieranie, metody badań oraz zależności korelacyjne między wynikami uzyskiwanymi różnymi metodami rozdzierania. Badania wytrzymałości na rozdzieranie wykonano dla wytypowanej grupy wyrobów z przeznaczeniem na odzież ochronną. Ponadto dla ww. grupy wyrobów wyznaczono wytrzymałość na jednokierunkowe rozciąganie oraz wyznaczono współczynniki korelacji liniowej między wytrzymałością na rozciąganie, a wytrzymałością na rozdzieranie dla różnych metod rozdzierania.