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http://yadda.icm.edu.pl:80/baztech/element/bwmeta1.element.baztech-d868b00b-fab4-4a76-b43a-9e9b807de79f

Czasopismo

Oceanologia

Tytuł artykułu

Some characteristic wave energy dissipation patterns along the Polish coast

Autorzy Różyński, G.  Szmytkiewicz, P. 
Treść / Zawartość http://www.iopan.gda.pl/oceanologia/ http://www.sciencedirect.com/journal/oceanologia
Warianty tytułu
Języki publikacji EN
Abstrakty
EN The paper analyses cross-shore bathymetric profiles between Władysławowo (km 125 of the national coastal chainage) and Lake Sarbsko (km 174) commissioned in 2005 and 2011 by coastal authorities for monitoring purposes. The profiles, spaced every 500 m, cover beach topography from dune/cliff tops through the emerged beach to a seabed depth of about 15 m. They were decomposed by signal processing techniques to extract their monotonic components containing all major modes of the variability of beach topography. They are termed empirical equilibrium profiles and can be used for straightforward assessment of wave energy dissipation rates. Three characteristic patterns of wave energy dissipation were thus identified: one associated with large nearshore bars and several zones of wave breaking; a second, to which the equilibrium beach profile concept can be applied; and a third, characterized by mixed behaviour. Interestingly, most profiles showed significant seabed variations beyond the nearshore depth of closure – this phenomenon requires comprehensive studies in future.
Słowa kluczowe
EN coastal morphology   wave energy dissipation   equilibrium profiles   data-driven modelling   signal processing  
Wydawca Polish Academy of Sciences, Institute of Oceanology
Elsevier
Czasopismo Oceanologia
Rocznik 2018
Tom No. 60 (4)
Strony 500--512
Opis fizyczny Bibliogr. 19 poz., mapy, tab., wykr.
Twórcy
autor Różyński, G.
autor Szmytkiewicz, P.
Bibliografia
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Uwagi
Opracowanie rekordu w ramach umowy 509/P-DUN/2018 ze środków MNiSW przeznaczonych na działalność upowszechniającą naukę (2018).
Kolekcja BazTech
Identyfikator YADDA bwmeta1.element.baztech-d868b00b-fab4-4a76-b43a-9e9b807de79f
Identyfikatory
DOI 10.1016/j.oceano.2018.04.001